La Muralla Roja: The Colorful Labyrinth of Calpe, Spain

In 1968, innovative Spanish architect Ricardo Bofill designed a colorful postmodern apartment building in Manzanera, Spain that loomed above the rocky coast like a Cubist citadel. Inspired by the kasbahs of North Africa, La Muralla Roja—or, The Red Wall—is imposing from a distance, yet inviting up-close.

Signs of relaxed domestic life such as an abundance of house plants, groups of neighbors leisurely chatting in maze-like stairwells, and a placid rooftop swimming pool prove that La Muralla Roja’s unconventional design does not stop it from being a cozy residential building.

La Muralla Roja has served as an active apartment building since it first opened its doors in 1973. Travelers have always been curious about La Muralla Roja’s bright exterior, geometric Greek cross design, and seemingly labyrinth-like interior. La Muralla Roja is not open for walk through tours, but curious and savvy travelers can occasionally rent an apartment from a permanent resident and stay for a few nights or weeks.

Visitors who are fortunate enough to temporarily rent one of La Muralla Roja’s 50 apartments are often struck by the winding staircases and blue, orange, and violet walls. La Muralla Roja’s vibrant colors highlight the deep blue of the nearby Mediterranean Sea and the stark blonde color of the surrounding landscape. Ascending the building’s winding pink stairwells with patches of blue sky peeking though is a soft dream-like experience that will make you feel as though you are inside of a painting.

The best way to view La Muralla Roja is to admire the building’s exterior. Visitors can join a walking tour which surveys some of Ricardo Bofill’s other creations, including the tall, olive green Xanadu apartment complex—which looks like a pagoda which was sliced into pieces and reassembled in a more angular configuration.

It is important to note that many residents of Spain are protective of their homes and their privacy. Please be respectful when photographing or exploring the area around La Muralla Roja, or you may get a talking to from one of the permanent residents.

Even if you are unable to step inside La Muralla Roja, a trip to Manzanera to stand on the beach to admire the surreal beauty of one of Spain’s most distinctive buildings is certainly worthwhile. La Muralla Roja is an architectural wonder, a dreamy mirage, and a soft, comforting maze that will leave you wishing that your apartment building was constructed by a visionary 20th century architect.

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