Cool Spain: The Northern Beauty of the Basque Region

When we say “Spain,” most people imagine beaches, palm trees, flamenco, castanets, and paella with sangria. But what if I told you there’s a part of Spain filled with wind, rain, deep green forests, perfectly grilled steaks, and lively, sparkling cider? Locals here aren’t as outwardly warm as people in the south—which, for many of us, is a plus. No half-hour hugs with strangers, no invading your personal space. Yet, the Basques are so in love with their homeland that the feeling hangs in the air.

The Basque region is an autonomous community in northern Spain, with its own government and even its own president. The Basques have their own unique culture, language (Euskera), and a high level of autonomy. A trip through this region might completely change your idea of Spain and create a kind of northern addiction. Where else will you find so many Michelin-starred restaurants and so many natural wonders—from Spain’s tallest waterfall to coastal bird-watching stations? What should you absolutely see here to make this place one of your favorites on your travel map?

Bilbao—the largest city in the Basque region—is industrial and mountainous, with architecture that is both modern and austere. San Sebastián is coastal—or rather, oceanfront—slightly laid-back, and equally beautiful. Between them lie dozens of towns, villages, and gourmet restaurants tucked deep into the greenery. Here are the must-see highlights.

Attractions

The Guggenheim Museum, Bilbao

You could say that Bilbao’s modern revival began with this museum, which brought crowds of contemporary art lovers to the city. As soon as the enormous metal structure—shaped like a futuristic ship—“sailed in” and settled along the Nervión River, the city entered a construction boom.

The museum offers permanent and temporary exhibitions. One of the most striking is Richard Serra’s The Matter of Time. Like much contemporary art, the giant steel forms may at first seem like piles of metal, but the idea is what matters.

• Location: Along the Nervión River, in a former port area
• Hours: Daily except Monday, 10:00–19:00
• Price: From €15

“The Comb of the Wind” by Eduardo Chillida

This sculpture appeared on the Ondarreta promenade in 1977: powerful waves, strong wind, and three rusted iron combs “brushing” the air. They aren’t just metal objects—monumentalist Eduardo Chillida meant them to express how nature plays with material, time, and form. Special openings in the stone slabs release bursts of air and water during high tides, creating whistling sounds.

The installation is free to visit and open around the clock.

• Location: At the foot of Monte Igueldo, about a 30-minute walk from the Old Town (Casco Viejo) along Ondarreta Beach

Flysch Geopark

If you want to see the history of our planet with your own eyes, this is the place. The geopark is famous for its flysch formations—layers of sedimentary rock formed in ancient marine environments. The cliffs look spectacular.

The best way to reach this extraordinary coastline is through a four-hour hike along the GR-121 trail, which starts in the town of Zumaia. You can also find other hiking routes on the geopark’s official website under “Route of the Viewpoints.”

• Location: Along the Bay of Biscay coast
• Hours: Open 24 hours, but daytime is best

The Nervión Waterfall

Spain’s tallest waterfall—200 meters—flows with full force in winter and spring, when snow melts and rain is frequent. In summer, it may dry up. The best viewing point is the Mirador del Salto del Nervión observation deck above the stream.

An added bonus: the walk from the Aparcamiento de Fuente Santiago parking area is easy. In good weather, the one-hour walk to the waterfall is especially pleasant.

• Location: On the border of Álava and Burgos provinces, near the town of Amurrio

Gaztelugatxe

Who’s watched Game of Thrones? (I haven’t, honestly.) But the island of Gaztelugatxe is a pilgrimage site for fans—because in season seven, it served as Dragonstone, the ancestral home of Daenerys Targaryen. The show added digital towers, but the stone staircase and winding bridge are instantly recognizable.

A chapel was built on the island in the 9th–10th centuries. Over the centuries, it has been destroyed and rebuilt many times. According to legend, John the Baptist once stopped here, and you can find a footprint-shaped mark near the chapel entrance. The current structure dates mostly from the 19th century.

• Location: About 40 minutes by car or bus from Bilbao (Estación de Autobuses de Bilbao) to the town of Bakio, then a 1.5 km walk to the island
• Hours: Varies by season; generally accessible in the morning and early afternoon
• Price: Free, but reservations are required in busy season

Where to Stay

You can stay in Bilbao, in San Sebastián, or split your trip between the two—only 100 kilometers apart, connected by frequent public transport.

• Hotel Ilunion San Mamés — A stylish business hotel in Bilbao with friendly staff. Perfect location: a 30-minute walk from the center and close to the bus station.
• Vincci Consulado De Bilbao — A cozy hotel with a rooftop overlooking the Guggenheim Museum.
• Mercure Monte Igueldo — The “highest” hotel in San Sebastián—thanks to its hilltop location. Remote but stunning, peaceful, and beautifully scenic.
• Hotel Maria Cristina, a Luxury Collection Hotel — Want to spot celebrities? Especially during the San Sebastián Film Festival in September. This is considered the most luxurious hotel in the city.
• Hotel de Londres y de Inglaterra — Looking for a sea view? This central oceanfront hotel is ideal.

Where to Eat

Most tourists are drawn to Michelin-starred restaurants and steak houses, but you can’t skip the pintxo bars—restaurants with small plates where you can sample everything at once. Pintxos are similar to tapas, but with a twist: here, small sandwiches on toothpicks with unusual ingredient combinations are the stars.

Be sure to try Txakoli wine, cod “pil-pil” (fish in a sauce of olive oil and fish juices), cod cheeks (Kokotxas), and the delicate green peas known as Guisante Lagrima. This seasonal delicacy can cost up to €300 per kilo and is available from April to June.

• • La Viña, San Sebastián — Home of the famous cheesecake that draws long lines. It’s worth the wait—and get extra slices.
  • Amaren, Bilbao — One of the best meat restaurants I’ve tried. It even made the list of the world’s top steak houses in 2022.

• Etxanobe, Bilbao — Two restaurants in one: Michelin-level cuisine upstairs and a more accessible—but equally delicious—menu downstairs. The chef is always present.
• Casa Urola, San Sebastián — Recommended by the Michelin Guide. Not fine dining, but outstanding pintxos at great prices.

Transportation

The ideal way to explore is by car, but buses are also convenient. Some remote places may be harder to reach without a car, but most major attractions are accessible by public transport. Within Bilbao and San Sebastián, there’s plenty to explore, and frequent Alsa buses run between the two cities. (Schedules and tickets: alsa.com.)

Traveler Tips

• Bring a waterproof jacket and an umbrella—rain can come at any time of year.
• Book all restaurants and hotels in advance; popular places fill up quickly in high season.
• The best months to visit: April–July and September–December.
• For memorable souvenirs, look for Pacharán (a Basque blackthorn liqueur), rich Idiazabal sheep cheese, or a traditional Basque beret—worn proudly by local men.