Bussana Vecchia: Visit an Italian Ghost Town Revitalized by Artists

In 1887, a catastrophic earthquake struck Northern Italy. The medieval town of Bussana was badly damaged. Residents had no choice but to flee the ruins and build a new town a short distance from Bussana Vecchia—or, Old Bussana.

Bussana Vecchia languished until a wave of settlers in the late 1940s began to illegally inhabit the town—despite a total lack of electricity, running water, and sanitation services. In the ‘50s and ‘60s, a collection of artists began to set up studios in partially collapsed buildings. Painters, sculptors, and illustrators worked by candlelight and ventured to nearby Bussana Nuova – or, New Bussana – once a week to bathe and gather basic necessities such as food and drinking water.

Since the mid-20th century, Bussana Vecchia has blossomed into a bustling artists’ colony. An international crew of puppet makers, potters, and muralists have infused the dilapidated streets of Vecchia with vibrant works of art. Visitors can watch working artists create new pieces and purchase an ever-rotating array of unique handmade items such as masks, ceramic mugs, and intricate pen and ink drawings.

As you climb the worn stone lanes of Bussana Vecchia on Liguria’s Riviera di Ponente, the air carries a mix of sea salt and crushed rosemary. Sun-warmed plaster gives off a faint mineral scent, cicadas buzz in the distance, and the soft clink of espresso cups drifts from a tiny café. You brush past ivy, feel grit underfoot, and catch flashes of the blue Ligurian coast between ochre walls painted with fresh murals.

One of Bussana Vecchia’s most dramatic attractions is the Saint Giles Church, which lost its roof in the earthquake of 1887. The ruins of the Saint Giles Church look more like a Roman temple than a medieval Christian church. Visitors can view remnants of weather-beaten archways and deteriorating walls that have been overtaken by vines.

Bussana Vecchia is still an off-the-grid locale with a tenuous legal status. You can book a night at a guerilla bed and breakfast or Airbnb within Bussana Vecchia’s walls, but there is a constant effort to evict residents and visitors from the town, since it is still not technically zoned to support residents and visitors. If you plan on spending the night, it is always wise to double check your reservation to make serve you will not encounter any legal red tape upon arrival.

The robust artist colony in Bussana Vecchia takes great pride in the repairs, upkeep, and infrastructure improvements that they are continually performing on their beloved home. There are even cafés and bars which serve delectable food.

If you’re seeking an alternative to Northern Italy’s glitzy yet crowded touristy hotspots, a day spent exploring the creative oasis of Bussana Vecchia is a revitalizing adventure worth taking. There’s a good chance you’ll stumble upon a unique piece of art that will forever grace your home.

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